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Buying Guides



Golf Irons Buying Guide

No golfer can get going without a set of irons. It's one of the essential elements of a golfer's bag. Most iron sets have 8 irons (3 to PW) being 3 iron, 4,5,6,7,8,9 and Pitching Wedge. Some sets are 9 irons and this typically would include the addition of a Sand Wedge. Each iron is designed to hit the ball a different distance with exactly the same type of swing. The difference between the irons in distance is about 10-15 yards and will differ for each individual. In a standard set the 3 iron will hit the ball the furthest and the PW will hit the ball the shortest. The 3 iron has the least loft in the set and is the hardest to hit. Iron shots can be played from the tee but mostly irons are used for full shot approaches to the green or shots down the fairway.

Most irons are manufactured using stainless steel as it's easy to use and very durable.

If I'm choosing my first Set of Irons.

Golf Irons Budget

The first thing to think about is budget. Generally in golf the more you spend the better product you get and even if you are a beginner you will get benefits from stretching the budget as far as you can. Once you've established this, then what type of irons will suit?

Type of Iron Head

Historically, there have been two types of iron heads. There is a blade type which better players prefer as they are said to offer more feel, control and versatility for shot making and there is a cavity back type which offers more forgiveness on off-centre hits. The negative to cavity back irons is they may be less versatile as different types of shots and trajectories are more difficult to achieve. But for most, and certainly the beginner, the cavity back iron set is the way to go. We want maximum forgiveness so we can hit straighter shots.

Another variable is the way that the head is manufactured. There are two main manufacturing methods, forging and casting. Forged heads are made from softer metal than cast heads and requiring hand finishing and chrome plating. Cast heads are cheaper to make and use harder metal. The benefits of forged versus cast are not clear although its felt the forged heads give more feel to better golfers and maybe more consistent performance. Most players won't tell a lot of difference between forged and cast clubs and the latter is the more likely starting option.

In recent times, manufacturers have introduced a new category of "super" iron. The term "super" comes with a new "super" large price tag unfortunately. The idea is that technology that has been used to rapidly change driver performance in recent years is being applied to irons. These types of irons attempt to raise the bar for distance and forgiveness in much the same way as has happened in drivers. These irons tend to be a bit chunkier than traditional irons but may give benefits particularly to new golfers.

To summarise we a looking for a cast iron set of 8 or 9 irons with cavity backs to ensure forgiveness and higher ball flight. The next issue to consider is the shaft.

Type of Iron Shaft

Most irons are sold with steel shafts in the UK, although in the rest of Europe the split between steel and graphite is much more equal. Steel shafts are cheaper to purchase than graphite shafts and this, rather than performance, may be a factor in the UK. The differences between steel and graphite shafts are becoming blurred with modern manufacturing methods.

Historically, steel shafts were seen as being more accurate and consistent in their performance. Graphite shafts were seen as giving benefits for golfers with slower swing speeds as they are lighter. Further, graphite shafts can give benefits to golfers with regard to impact vibration dampening and helping to reduce pain in the hands etc. Today, though, steel shafts are lighter than ever and graphite shafts are more consistent in their manufacture and performance. Most tour professionals used steel shafts in their irons although a few do use graphite. Its probably best to start with steel, maybe more for the value proposition, but if you can afford it don't rule out graphite as there can be benefits particularly for the new golfer, seniors and ladies.

Type of Iron Grip

One other point when selecting irons is the grips. The size of the grip can have an effect if you have either particularly small or large hands. If you have small hands a thinner grip can have benefits and if you have large hands a thicker grip can have benefits. Most grips are of a standard thickness and will be fine for the majority of golfers. They can be easily changed later at your local Nevada Bobs Golf shop if required.

For further advice please don't hesitate to contact our experts at Nevada Bobs customer.services@nevadabobs.co.uk

Golf Irons Technical Terms

Centre of Gravity (COG): Rather than worry about what it is, what you need to know is that the position of the centre of gravity in a club head affects the flight of the golf ball. Manufacturers try to position the COG as far back from the club face and as low as possible to assist you it gaining height and a good trajectory. Better players may not want the COG placed too far back as they prefer a lower, more penetrating ball flight but for the rest of us its very helpful.

Moment of Inertia (MOI): This refers to level of twisting of an object around its axis. In golf terms, a high MOI in a golf club means that the club head has a higher resistance to twisting and will therefore be more stable and forgiving.

Perimeter Weighting: This refers to placing weight on the perimeter of the club head and its effect is to increase the Moment of Inertia.

Progressive Cavity Back: Some iron sets have more forgiveness and a low COG in long irons (3,4,5) as these are harder to hit. Then in the shorter irons the COG is higher so that you don't get too high a flight.

To learn more about technical aspects and the makeup of golf clubs and other golf equipment please refer to our online Nevada Bobs golf glossary


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